Some back ground info , i started with tuning my own motors more than 5 years ago ,back than we had the peanut motor the 230 and the rc230 .. now we have the 231 motor and the 260 , the 260 will soon been followed up by the 270 motor , no changes , just a new nr ,

 The 260 motor is one of the most common and favorite motor to work with , its allowed in most classes for racing , easy to tune and spare parts are not difficult to find .there for the Zenoah 260 is the perfect choise for in your boat

What can we do to your motor ? well first you have to find out what you WANT with your boat and motor . fun running , racing ore Saw racing will bring different boat setups and also different power choises for you boat .. a fun run boat can be stock ore lightly modded , a oval heat race boat needs power enough to keep the speed and rpm in the turns .. while a SAW boat needs lots of power and high rpm ..

Than the weight , choise of pipe and prop of your boat will bring you the perfect setup .. a tuned motor will help you to a higher level of boating , but the end result is in the perfect setup ..

Now let's see what we can do with your motor  !

Clean up your workbench and get the motor out of your boat , ore out of the box , take off the carb and the isolator . take the cilinder of the casing and take the clip out the piston , than the piston pin and the rest . put the casing , the bearings and the carb with isolator on a safe spot , we only need the cilinder and the piston remove the piston ring too .

TOOLS ! we need tools to tune a motor , we use a Dremel tool and some burrs , some files , waterproof sanding paper , a good clamp , waterproof black marker , 2 small brushes and safety glasses !  before we start working on the set, lay an old towel on your bench , that will absorbe the metal splinters and you can fold it up when your done and trough it away . now Put on the safety glasses and lets do some tuning !

We start with the piston . put the piston in the clamp and take 0.3 mm of the skirt from the intake site of the piston . do this with a file . than put a good big burr in your dremel and start grinding out the inside of the piston . there is a lot of material there that you can take away , change burr's and use a ball burr to do the deep part of the piston if you have done both sides of the piston , than use a brush to clean it up a bit . than clamp it back again but now with the pistonpin opening looking at you . than make the big slots in the piston , do this with a steady hand and take your time , clean the burr if needed , remove aluminium so the burr can cut clean trough your material .  than use a special sandig burr to clean the sharp edges , if you dont have those , use some waterproof sandpaper to soften the edges . dont forget the edge if the intake side you filed off !  now get a clean brush and clean the piston in the sink with lots of water .use the brush to clean even the smallest holes here and there . use a clean (paper) towel to dry the piston , and let it dry for 24 hours to make sure it's completly dry ..   your piston is done !

Now the Cilinder !

Still doing ok with the dremel ? good ! lets do the cilinder . we start with the bridge between the 2 transfers you see left and right . messure 8 mm down the bridge and draw a line with a good waterproof marker . than take a good grind burr and make the bridge smaller . when both done take a straight burr to make the brigdes straight again . when done clean the cilinder with a brush . than take a small burr and drmel the flow back in the bridge , make the edge;s of the bridge sharp . when both done clean up the cilinder agian with a brush . next is the Eye brow trick . use the marker to draw a line between the 2 transfers under the intake . you can cut a buisnesscard and use the stright lines for help . now use the ball burr to cut the eyebrows in the cilinder .. dont go to deep but you can go as far as 3mm to left and right .. when done you use a small burr to make the edge more round and clean up the rough material , you just made the 2 transfers much wider . clean up the cilinder with a brush . now clean up the transfers completely with a cutting burr so that both transfers are smooth and the flow is easy without bumps etc . than use the sanding burr ore waterproof sanding paper to take care of the sharp edges . ALL of them .!

Now the intake port !

Use a cutting burr to make the left and righ side of the port wider ! dont make it higher ore lower , just wider ! you can take away at least 1 mm on both sides . than use the same burr to adjust the flow in the port , again make it smooth . you can make the small brigde in the port (the failsafe for the pistonring) a bit smaller . clean up the cilinder with a brush , than use the sanding burr ore sandpaper to smooth the edges .  there is a pulse port for the carb in the cilinder as well , make it deeper ! and sand the sharp edges .

Than the Exhaust port .

Best thing to do is try to use the marker and draw a line from left to right under the top of the exaust port . use that buisness card again . for overall use you can take off 1 mm of the material of the port .. the top side that is, not the bottom side .you can make it wider too , 1 mm wider on both sides is no problem .take your time with this , clean your burr from aluminium and look trough the intake port to see if your cut is as horizontal as you can .also adjust the cuts with the original size of the port and make it smooth without any bumps .when your done clean the cilinder with a brush and use the sanding drum ore sandpaper to clean up the rough edges and make them smooth .

Now clean your cilinder with a brush in the sink with lots of water . wash out all the material with warm water  make sure you clean the sparkplug hole real good . let it dry for 24 hours . than mount back the piston on the motor . srapy it with WD40 ore a teflon oil .spray the inside of the cilinder as well and mount the cilinder back on .. when all the bolts tighten again , slowly turn the cranck to see the piston is moving good and no jamming ore soe will happen . than pull the pull start a few times . if you forgot any sharp edges you will see that back in the piston . of the piston stays clean . you have done a good job .

This is a standard tuning setup , the power of the motors can vary if you remove more material from the exhaust port , you gain RPM there but loose Torque .  also the widening of the intake port and the exhaust port has influence on the motor . if you have a timing tool you can time your motor and see where your motor is now and what you can do ..there are more tuning options like a special thin gasget for the cilinder , ore "shaving the feet "of the cilinder , but you need special tools for that . also a modded carb brings some , and lets not forget zero drag seals in your motor to loose all the drag from the rubber seals .. step by step you will built a high power motor for your boat !

Now if you dont dare to let the dremel fall in your cilinder set, you can always contact me for more advise , and yess i still do motor tuning !

Good luck !